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Sample text
Grains shoreward ( C )and seaward ( D ) of the breaker zone move toward the plunging wave essentially tracing water-particle motion. Diameter of grains at any position is primarily a function of available wave energy or power. 121), and field data of INMAN and NASU(1956) and NAGATA (1961). The net motion of grains into the breaker zone is brought about primarily because of the acceleration in seaward and shoreward water motion in conjunction with wave collapse. Acceleration of shoreward water velocity takes place immediately offshore, whereas a seaward acceleration takes place in the exaggerated trough developed shoreward of the breaking wave.
20, 26-28), completing a collection along the row or rows on the up-drift side of the release points. Generally a three-man team was used to collect samples. The Vaseline-coated 3 x 3 inch sample cards were pressed by two workers onto the sand at the predetermined stations while a third followed holding a shield-like sample board (Fig. 26A,B. Collection of 3 x 3 inch sample cards under moderate surf at Trancas Beach. The grease-coatedcards were pressed onto the sand surface at each station as rapidly as possible using a three-man team; one sample board carrier and two collectors equipped with collecting poles.
Variation in foreshore-inshore grain diameter at various positions on the beach slope and on different degrees of slope (plots include data from Goleta, Trancas, Santa Monica, Huntington, and La Jolla beaches). points on beach profiles generally increased seaward with the exception of abnormally high diameters in bi-modal transition zone samples; (3) median diameters of individual samples increased with increasing slope when slopes were greater than 3 as found by BASCOM (1951); ( 4 ) the average median diameter across the foreshoreinshore slopes increased with increasing average foreshore-inshore slope; (5) Trask sorting values of individual samples were poorest midway between the swash and breaker zones.